Carpano Antica

Good news for those who appreciate fine quality beverages: the definitive sweet vermouth is now readily available in the States; I say that because if I could buy it here in Rochester, I assume it’s on the shelves pretty much everywhere.

We’ve always been fans of vermouth. It’s an essential ingredient in some of the classic cocktails: sweet for Manhattans, and dry for Martinis. More importantly, it makes an excellent aperitif, all by itself. Susan drinks it half and half (that’s half sweet, and half dry, with a twist) which some folks call a French Kiss, and which Cinzano actually bottles in that mixture, although I haven’t seen it on shelves for a long time. Also, vermouth is great for cooking; all the herbs give it a more interesting flavor than, for example, white wine. And among the vermouth variations, we’ve also long been fans of Punt e Mes, a sweet vermouth, bottled by Carpano, and made more interesting by the addition of bitters.

But only on a few occasions have I had the chance to taste another Carpano product - the Antica Formula. Gramercy Tavern has had it behind its bar for a several years, but they’ve got one of the most interesting bar menus I’ve ever seen. Until recently it was hard to find here in the hinterlands. The label suggests that Carpano Antica originated in 1786, and perhaps it was the original Italian vermouth. (By the way, when vermouth first came to this country after the civil war, sweet vermouth was known as Italian vermouth, and dry was known as French vermouth. I’ve been reading Imbibe, which reprints the original Jerry Thomas cocktail recipes, and all of them use that terminology -- Italian or French.) According to Imbibe, when it first arrived in this country, vermouth was drunk without spirits. So the Jerry Thomas vermouth cocktail is merely sweet vermouth on the rocks with a twist. And by the way, the Carpano Antica is absolutely delicious when served that way. Eventually, someone in New York invented the Manhattan, and vermouth became relegated to the status of mixer only. That’s too bad. We’ve always felt that good vermouth, Cinzano being our household standard, can be drunk on its own. But this Carpano Antica is clearly a step up. It’s a terrific aperitif, and not bad as a digestif either.

So that’s the good news for today; that and the fact that Kentucky was upset by Vanderbilt. Let’s tune in to the selection show this evening and find out if the Orange are playing in the east. And if they are, a beverage or two will be called for, maybe a chilled glass of Carpano Antica.