Van Winkle 23

A week ago, we were in Albany for a wedding, and ended up one night at the bar in our hotel, with the unfortunate name of “ DP, an American Brasserie”. What kind of a name is that for a bar? After we had already ordered cocktails, I noticed, on a shelf high above the bar, a bottle of Van Winkle Special Reserve, 12 year old. I asked the bartender what they charged for the Van Winkle, and he, in turn, asked: “For the 12, for the 20, or for the 23?”  “No, just the 12”, I replied. And as it was a modest $13 a pour,  I ordered one, to go with my Pimm’s Cup.

 

After having identified myself as a whisky lover, merely by virtue of having spied the Winkle high above the bar; and then having engaged the bartender in lengthy and detailed conversation about Van Winkle, its present scarcity, its outstanding flavor, and the fact that the 15 was my favorite, and of course after dropping the name of the now defunct Stitzel-Weller distillery, where Van Winkle was once produced, I was ready to take the next step. “Have you tasted the 23?” asked the bartender? “No”, I replied, “too rich for my taste.” A couple minutes later he returned with a short pour, maybe half an ounce, but on the house.

 

Now, I have tasted some pretty good whiskies in the past few years, including a host of great bourbons when we went to Whisky Live in Boston. But this Winkle 23 was unique -- unlike anything I’ve ever tasted. It had a rich creamy texture - smoother, softer, and more rounded even than the great aged scotches we’ve had a chance to sample. Of course, bourbon is by nature sweeter than scotch, owing to the corn in the mash, but this Winkle was so thick and rich, almost like syrup. And, as you would expect, it had a long, really long finish. We passed the taste around so everyone could get a drop or two, and when the glass came back, several minutes later, I could still taste the rich caramel flavor on my palate.

 

I’m a big fan a the various Van Winkles. We used to drink the 12 regularly, when one could easily find it on the shelf in several local establishments. I used to keep a bottle of the 15 around, but unfortunately, I haven’t even seen any of that for the past couple years. And I still have the better part of a bottle of 20 that a grateful client gave me a few years ago. I heard John recently found a couple bottles of Jefferson Presidential Select, which is actually 18 year old Van Winkle, from Stitzel-Weller. All of them are great. All of them are a must-have-one, when I see them out somewhere. But I’ve got to figure out a way to get a bottle of the 23. Before it completely disappears. A truly unique whisky.

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