Bladnoch 15, Single cask

It’s been a month. My excuse is that I’ve been busy, but really I think the problem has been that there is no reason to write about the baseball season. The Sox are off to such a bad start -- struggling to play five hundred ball against lousy teams --while the Rays and the Yankees are trouncing everyone in the path. Who wants to write about that? Or should I catalogue the many ways in which our bullpen has surrendered leads this year -- blowing saves; giving up late-inning home runs; how about walking in the winning run on four pitches?

I could write about the C’s, who have been playing like 2008 once again, giving us the only good news on the sports page since Cuse beat Villanova in front of 34,616, shortly before AO busted up his knee, dooming the Orange to an unfortunate premature exit from the tournament. But I’d rather wait a couple weeks on that topic; let’s see how they continue to fare against the Magic.

So instead of all that, let’s talk whisky. After all, there is rarely any bad news when one talks whisky. And it’s a subject on which pretty much everyone can agree. And I have a spectacular whisky to discuss this evening, courtesy of my son, John, and his good friend and purveyor, the inestimable Joe Howell from Federal Wine and Spirits in Boston.

The story begins several weeks ago, when John attended a tasting at Federal featuring, among other single malts, Bladnoch, the last great surviving lowland distillery. I have previously extolled the virtues of Bladnoch, having found right here in Rochester a very nice 16 year old Signatory bottling. Bladnoch is recognizable for its great floral nose, as nice a bouquet as any malt whisky, and its light easy-drinking character. Bladnoch may be the perfect five o’clock scotch. Because the distillery was closed for about a decade, it’s not easy to find, and in fact, I’ve only seen it previously in private bottlings --the aforementioned Signatory, and a very nice Connoisseur’s Choice,which John located last year from, where else, Federal.

So in recognition of my sixtieth birthday, John showed up in Syracuse recently with a bottle of 15 year old, cask-strength, single cask Bladnoch. 55.8%. According to the label, this cask was chosen by John McDougall, who serves as the master distiller for the reopened Bladnoch. He supposedly hand picks the cask, and bottles the whisky under his name. And I’m pleased to say that Mr. McDougall has outdone himself with this particular selection. The color is darker than the usual pale yellow; the gold color foretells the richness of this unique lowland malt. And the nose is still as light and floral as any other Bladnoch. But that’s where the comparison ends. Once this malt gets on the tongue, it leaves all other lowlands behind, including Rosebank, which had been our most beloved malt of all, ever since we drank an eighteen on a cruise ship sailing aimlessly through the Caribbean a few years ago.

What sets this Bladnoch apart is not just the flavor, but the texture as well. But before we get to that texture, it’s worth noting that this whisky has a richer, stronger flavor than any other lowland we’ve tasted. I think it’s even richer than the twenty-year old we’ve had at Keen’s. My notes from that tasting mention the flowery spice, shades of Rosebank, and the big flavor. I recall it being a knockout. What’s different about this Bladnoch is its richness. Its flavor is deeper and stronger than other lowlands, without overshadowing the floral notes. A touch of caramel gives the whisky an added depth. But the real treat is the texture. You know that we love malts with a rich buttery texture. Think of Bunnahabhain 18, for example. This Bladnoch seems to coat the palate, like syrup, imparting a luxurious character to the caramel taste, and providing for a long long finish. I have to say this whisky is among the very best I have ever tasted, a rather remarkable observation considering that it’s only a fifteen year old, and not unreasonably priced. (I should point out, however, that despite the price, it’s probably not easy to find anywhere in the states.)

John and I loved this malt so much that we returned to Federal last weekend, when Susan and I paid a visit to Boston. Joe was his usual hospitable self, offering us a taste of some previously unknown ten-year old, despite the fact that it was only an hour after breakfast. And after a couple tastings, and a half-hour of talking whisky, we inquired about the Bladnoch, and learned that Joe had one remaining bottle, which I bought for John, to return the favor. Joe was so appreciative, that he gave us each a taste of a twenty-one year old Highland Park, some commemorative bottling that was no longer available anywhere. We took the Bladnoch back to John’s place, had a little taste for ourselves, and then secreted it at the back of the liquor shelf, where it would remain unseen and unselected, except on those occasions when lovers of lowland malts pay a visit to John’s place in Fort Point. If you happen to do that, and you’re favored enough to share a dram of this malt, you’ll agree that it was well worth the trip. I for one, am already looking forward to my next visit.