Two Great Malts for the New Year
One more time, and perhaps for the last time, the Careys have
brought G-Man two exceptional whiskies from Scotland . We have become so spoiled
by the amazing whiskies they have purchased, it’s hard to imagine we can ever
find comparable malts in this country. Even at a place like Keens, it’s
difficult to measure up to these exceptional whiskies. And I have to admit that, although I consider
my collection to be rather extensive, I’m awed by the spectacular and rare
malts that G-Man now houses in Portland .
This year’s offerings include Glenfarclas 175, a vatting of
whiskies from the past six decades, bottled to celebrate the 175th
anniversary of this family owned and run highland distillery. The Farclas 175
presents itself with a rich amber color, and long legs clinging to the side of
the glass, indicative of the rich texture of this malt. On the nose, we detected vanilla, caramel and
butterscotch, and found that a drop of water (don’t use more than a drop or
two) enhanced the nose considerably. In the mouth, there were notes of caramel,
vanilla, citrus, and even a little spice. And, as suggested by the long legs, a
rich mouthfeel, a luxurious texture on the tongue. The best thing, however, was the complexity
of the whisky, undoubtedly arising from the different characteristics of the many
malts that were blended into this vatting. As the whisky lingered on the
tongue, more and more flavors presented themselves. G thought that the citrus
became more prominent as the whisky remained in the mouth; I just loved how the
taste evolved as I swirled it around. There was a soft pleasant finish, not as
complex as the palate, but certainly a pleasing finish.
Glenfarclas is a favorite of many malt lovers, for its
consistency, and for its value. Joe at Federal swears by Farlcas, and over the
past several years, we have tasted any number of their whiskies from the 12 all
the way up to the 40. But if you are looking for a special malt to add to your
cabinet, I highly recommend this 175 anniversary malt. No way you’ll be disappointed.
Our next, and final offering from the Bottle Shop is a 37
(!) year old Glen Grant, bottled by Berrys .
It was distilled in 1974, and is bottled at 47.8%. Every whisky has its
predominant characteristic – for some it’s the nose, or the mouth-feel, or the
smoke. But for this Glen Grant it’s the
finish. In one sense, you only need to pour a spoonful at a time, because once
you taste it, the finish is so long, and so consistent, that you continue to
taste the whisky for the longest time afterward. As I’m writing this, it must
be five minutes since I last tasted the Glen Grant, yet its flavor is lingering
in my mouth.
The taste is light, and clean, with strong citrus notes. The
mouth-feel is almost dry, like a good wine, and as G-man said, “There’s no fat
on this steak.” Somewhere deep inside the Glen Grant, there are very subtle
spicy notes, but try as we could, and even with the help of others with very sensitive
olfactory skills, we could not discern that specific flavor. Citrus, spice, a
light nutty flavor, in fact surprisingly light for a malt that spent so long in
the barrel. Working all the way back, the color is a deep gold, reminiscent of Cognac .
On behalf of all the whisky lovers who have come to Great
Barrington over the years, I want to thank the Careys for their extraordinary
generosity, and their astute selections. We have all had the chance to taste a
variety of unforgettable malts. And I want to thank G for sharing these
beautiful whiskies with us.